Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Ultra Vanities at Goldsmiths


I dropped off a ring at Goldsmiths today for early hall and called in to see the summer exhibition 'Ultra Vanities- Bejewelled Make-Up Boxes from the Age of Glamour'. I had about half an hour before closing time. Ten minutes before the end, I started drawing a Cartier compact, then a Rozanes compact, each made from Onyx and Jade. The more I drew, the more I saw.

I'll call back again when I pick up my client's mother of pearl ring and I'll return with my pencil and paper.

These little bejewelled compacts, 'necessaire de beaute', from the 1920's to the 1970's are exquisitely crafted, with tiny drawers and compartments for wealthy fashionable clients' make-up and cigarettes. Van Cleef and Arpels is one of the fashion houses represented and has some of my favourites, but I loved the Cartier compacts, similar to the one below, with the chain and tube (is that to hold a tiny lipstick? Will have to find out.....)
The Oriental influence is seen in many 1920's compacts, like this one from Cartier with green jade, black onyx


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